A giant patch of rosemary is a sweet reminder that a good cook lived in the nearby cottage where I get my own personal supply of the herb.

The rosemary brings back many memories of intriguing aromas that wafted from the small, sparsely equipped kitchen where she put her culinary talents to work.

From the window over the sink,

she could look out upon the thriving herb garden she planted. And I can imagine as she scrubbed her stock pot or dried the spoons, she saw the rosemary, thyme, sage and other herbs in a way I never could. Good cooks just have that natural way about them.

These years later, the sprawling rosemary has overtaken anything else that in another time might have grown in that brick-rimmed bed, including some excellent asparagus that now only occasionally makes an appearance in the spring and early fall.

The very name of rosemary has a pleasant sound. In fact, the strong aroma it emits might be said to overpower the gentle name.

Others have picked from this nearly abandoned rosemary patch. One friend came to get the herb for baked chicken; another, for fish; still another cut huge bouquets to take to a Natchez eatery for table decorations.

All were welcome to pick, as there is plenty to go around. And, being an evergreen, the herb remains useful through the winter months &045;&045; my own favorite time to use rosemary, such as in chicken stew or with a beef dish.

Not cooking as much this winter as in some seasons past, I have nonetheless checked out the rosemary and recalled some good dishes prepared in my kitchen and even better ones concocted by the talented cook who planted it.

Rosemary is a native of the Mediterranean. How lovely that it will grow so well for us in the Deep South, where, like today, the temperatures can fall into the lower 20s.

One of my favorite descriptions of rosemary is that &uot;in masses, blossoming rosemary looks like blue-gray mist blown inland from the sea.&uot;

As a matter of fact, the herb takes its name from the Latin word, rosmarinus, which means &uot;sea dew.&uot;

Not only is rosemary a favorite herb for cooks; it also is used in perfumes. As with so many ancient plants, it has symbolic reference, also &045;&045; remembrance. I like that about the herb’s lore, as the remembrance idea has real meaning for me.

A search of one of the major recipe Web sites brought these good recipes, an addition to the excellent suggestions made by Tara Hayes in her column today. These range from the very simple but classic James Beard Rosemary Chicken to the much more complicated Phyllo-Wrapped Brie with Apricot and Rosemary Chutney for adventurous cooks &045;&045; like the one who left rosemary behind for me.

Rosemary Chicken

1 roasting chicken

1 sprig of rosemary

1 lump of butter

Salt and pepper to taste

Melted butter flavored with rosemary

Place a sprig of rosemary, a lump of butter, salt and pepper in the cavity of the chicken. Close the vent with foil, truss the bird and brush it with melted butter flavored with rosemary. Spit it and roast it, basting with more rosemary butter.

House & Garden, July 1956

James A. Beard

Rosemary Shortbread

The following shortbread is a delicate balance of sweet and savory and makes a wonderful accompaniment to tea.

3/4 sticks (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoons honey

1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crumbled

Garnish: small rosemary sprigs

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and butter generously a 9-inch cake pan or coat lightly one 9-inch round shortbread mold with vegetable oil spray. In a bowl with an electric mixer beat butter and honey with sugar until light and fluffy. In another bowl whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and chopped or dried rosemary. Beat flour mixture into butter mixture until just combined.

On a lightly floured surface knead dough about 8 times, or until it just comes together. With floured hands press dough evenly into pan or mold. If using cake pan score dough into 8 wedges with floured tines of a fork and with flat sides of tines press edges decoratively. Press small rosemary sprigs on top.

Bake shortbread in middle of oven 20 to 30 minutes, or until pale golden, and let stand in pan for 10 minutes. While shortbread is still warm, loosen edges from pan with a small knife and invert onto your hand covered with a kitchen towel. Invert shortbread onto a cutting board and cut halfway through round along score marks. Cool shortbread on a rack.

Makes 8 shortbread cookies.

Gourmet, December 1994

Phyllo-Wrapped Brie with Apricot and Rosemary Chutney

Be sure to order an uncut wheel of Brie ahead of time from a cheese shop or specialty foods store. The entire wheel is baked with a flavorful chutney; any leftover chutney is great with curries or roasts.

Chutney

12 ounces dried apricots, chopped

1 large red onion, chopped

1 cup water

2/3 cup cider vinegar

2/3 cup (packed) golden brown sugar

3 ounces dried tart cherries (3/4 cup)

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds, toasted

Cheese and Phyllo

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

1 pound fresh phyllo pastry sheets or frozen, thawed

4 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

1 32- to 36-ounce wheel of Brie

Presentation

Fresh herb sprigs (such as rosemary, sage, and chives)

Additional dried apricots and dried cherries

Fresh baguettes, thinly sliced

Thinly sliced apples

To Make Chutney

Combine all ingredients except almonds in heavy large saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until most liquid has evaporated and chutney is thick, stirring occasionally, about 25 minutes. Mix in almonds. Transfer chutney to bowl. Chill until cold, about three hours. (Can be made 1 week ahead. Cover, keep chilled.)

Assembly of cheese and phyllo

Brush heavy large baking sheet with butter; set aside. Unroll pastry. Cover with plastic wrap and damp kitchen towel. Transfer 2 stacked phyllo sheets to work surface, arranging 1 short side parallel to edge of work surface. Arrange 2 more stacked phyllo sheets on work surface, overlapping long side of first sheets by about 5 to 7 inches and forming rectangle about 18 by 17 inches. Brush pastry with butter; sprinkle 11/2 tablespoons rosemary over. Place 2 more stacked sheets atop first set of 2 sheets, then 2 more stacked sheets atop second set of 2 sheets. Brush with butter and sprinkle with 1 1/2 tablespoons rosemary. Repeat layering 1 more time with phyllo, butter and 1 1/2 tablespoons rosemary. (You will use a total of 12 sheets.)

Using sharp knife or scissors, trim phyllo corners, forming approximately 17-inch oval. place Brie in center of phyllo. Spread 1 1/2 cups chutney evenly over cheese. Slide hand under 1 rounded corner of phyllo. Lift phyllo and fold onto top of cheese. Brush folded pastry with butter. Continue to lift phyllo in sections and to fold snugly over top of cheese, brushing with butter and pressing each section to adhere until cheese is wrapped (the top center 2 to 3 inches of cheese will not be covered). Use hand and metal spatula to transfer wrapped cheese to prepared baking sheet.

Place 1 phyllo sheet on work surface. Brush with butter. Starting at 1 long side, fold 1 inch of pastry over.

Continue folding pastry loosely over itself, forming 1-inch-wide strip of pastry over. Continue folding pastry loosely over itself, forming 1-inch-wide strip of pastry. Roll up strip into coil. Gather bottom edge of coil together, pinching to force top slightly open and forming rose. Place rose atop uncovered center of cheese. Brush with butter. Repeat with 2 more sheets of phyllo, forming 2 more roses. Place atop cheese, covering opening completely. Chill 3 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover with plastic; keep chilled.)

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400!F. Bake cheese until pastry is deep golden brown,

covering roses loosely with foil if browning too quickly, about 25 minutes. (If cheese leaks from pastry

during baking, press piece of foil over tear in pastry; continue baking.)

Cool cheese on sheet 45 minutes.

Presentation

Using metal spatula, transfer warm cheese to large platter. Arrange herbs, dried fruit, baguette slices and apple slices around cheese. Cut cheese into wedges.

Serves 16.

Bon App/tit, January 1996